Screwing with the good stuff

As many will recall, less than a decade ago, the metal screwcap was so thoroughly identified with nasty, "rotgut" wines that the conventional wisdom held that wine "geeks" would never accept them for "serious" wines.
Then PlumpJack Winery, a pricey boutique operation in California's Napa Valley announced in June 2000 that it would equip some of its 1997 Reserve Cabernet with metal screw caps - and that the screw-capped bottles would go for $135, or $10 more than the same wine stoppered with a natural cork.
At that time, just eight years ago, the notion of putting an expensive, collectible wine under a screwcap - just like Wild Irish Rose! - was such an offbeat idea that Plumpjack grabbed headlines in the general media. As a tiny producer that would put metal caps on the produce of only about a dozen barrels that year, they would barely move the market. But they certainly brought attention to the issue.

To that point, only a relatively small number of wineries - most of them in Australia and New Zealand - had been experimenting with the metal cap, a sturdy, long-sleeved device that held wine securely, a far cry from the puny caps used on cheap wines and booze.

Sometime soon after 2000 more and more wines started showing up with the sturdy Stelvin screwcaps. (Others went with plastic-type synthetic "corks," a separate story for another day.) I rather doubt that Plumpjack did much to influence the shift, but certainly public attitudes about wine closures began to change as wine lovers tired of an unacceptably high failure rate of "cork taint" in natural cork.

New Zealand and Australia led the charge, particularly with white wines, which seemed to retain particular clarity and freshness under screw cap. Other white-wine producing regions - Germany, Austria and some U.S. producers - soon joined in. And eventually, red wines too, particularly those not destined for long-term storage, started showing up with metal caps.

Until now, though, there's seemingly been a price ceiling. Save for the Plumpjack exception, screwcaps and synthetics seemed to find their market niche mostly among "everyday" wines in the $7 to $15 or even $20 range.
But recently I'm starting to see another small but significant change. As evidence mounts that ageworthy wines may evolve very nicely indeed under a good screwcap (a debatable issue that had supported the last bastion for natural cork in fancy, cellarworthy wine), These closures are appearing on much more expensive wines in the $50-and-up range, wines as suited for cellaring as for early consumption.

It's slow coming - my friends at Brown-Forman tell me, for instance, that the excellent Sonoma-Cutrer Russian River Chardonnay will show up in screwcap with this year's vintage ... but only as an experiment in Texas and Florida at this time. So progress comes slowly, very slowly.

Thus my surprise when I happily ripped open my recent monthly box of goodies from California Wine Club's high-end Connoisseurs' Series recently and found a trendy, $50-plus Oregon Pinot Noir sporting the familiar metal screwcap. I may have missed it, but at least in my observations at local retail, this is the most costly wine I've found under screwcap since the original Plumpjack experiment.
It's a splendid wine, too, particularly for those who prize their Pinot in the big, intense and blockbuster style. It's made by Pali Wine CDompany of California, whose wine maker is the respected Brian Loring, a man known for making Pinot with real muscles. This may seem an odd combination to bring to an Oregon Pinot, a niche more typically prized for a relatively Burgundian elegance. But this one works for me. It's intense, big and alcoholic and complex and balanced, almost like (if you can imagine such a thing) a Burgundy on steroids.

It retails for $55, although Connoisseurs' Series members may place "restock" orders for less, which, as I said, breaks the $50 barrier for screw capped wines. I don't think it will be the last to do so.

Celebrate with Independence Sommelier Sips Selected for You!

CASTLE ROCK CHARDONNAY 2006, CALIFORNIA
"This elegant Chardonnay offers a rich, ripe and fruity character with a delicious blending of vanilla, pear, citrus and melon flavors, subtle oak undertones and a long, balanced finish. In any season this Castle Rock Chardonnay will complement most cuisines and is an especially pleasing accompaniment to fish, poultry and lightly sauced entrees."-Winery notes $ 11.99

Truly a bang!
CANNONBALL CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2005, CALIFORNIA
This is one of the values of the year! 80% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Syrah, this big, bold red wine explodes with black cherry and berry fruit, with a long, chocolate-y finish. Though it's full and rich, this Cab is well-balanced and easy to enjoy with or without food. This is a great wine for outdoor grillin' or for any party. As the winery says, "Share a splash with good friends!" $ 12.99

One of my ultimate favorites...
CASTLE ROCK PINOT NOIR WILLAMETTE 2007, OREGON
"This elegant medium-bodied wine offers aromas of cherry and spice. On the palate the wine gives flavors of berries, cinnamon, black cherry, sweet vanilla oak and floral notes, with a long, velvety finish. This versatile wine pairs well with lamb, chicken, veal, salmon and light pasta dishes."--Winery Notes $ 13.98

Great for those who aren't 100% Sauvignon Blanc lovers!
HONIG SAUVIGNON BLANC NAPA VALLEY 2007, CALIFORNIA
Complex scents of pear and apple cider. Juicy flavors of apple and white peach. Lingering peach impressions in the juicy close. $ 15.99

Sommelier Selected Summer Sips

Great for BBQ...
EDUCATED GUESS NAPA VALLEY CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2005, CALIFORNIA
Distinct ripeness may be the dominant theme here, but this fairly full and slightly viscous wine musters a modicum of ripe-cherry fruit as a counterpoint to its ongoing themes of chocolate and caramelly oak. It avoids the coarseness and heat that is almost a given in very ripe wines, and its richness makes it a good choice for pairing up with pot roasts and heartier stews. $ 19.99

A true favorite...
BOTTER PROSECCO SPAGO N/V, ITALY
This sparkling wine is crisp and offers a wonderful almond blossom undertone in the bouquet. This fruity but dry sparkling wine is great by itself or as a base for bellinis (a blend of Prosecco and either peach or apricot juice). $ 12.99

Versatility...
HAYMAN AND HILL INTERCHANGE 2006, CALIFORNIA
A blend of 47% Chardonnay, 34% Sauvignon Blanc, 7% Muscat, 5% Semillion and 3% Gewurtztraminer. Bright citrus and mineral acidity give the wine a fresh, clean backbone. Complemented by a rich and smooth palate to round out the tropical fruit characteristics. Food Suggestion: Calls for some robust fish such as poached Atlantic Salmon or more delicate meat dishes like grilled pork chops. A great wine to start any occasion in style. $ 12.98

Consistency...
HILLINGER PINOT GRIGIO 2007, AUSTRIA
This is one of the best Pinot Grigios outside of Italy. Dry, crisp and clean with plump orchard fruit flavors laced with almond and a bright fresh finish. Enjoy well chilled with scampi, grilled vegetables, sauteed chicken or pasta with white sauce. $ 10.98